How to Choose Electric Guitar Strings

String gauge refers to the thickness of the string, measured in thousandths of an inch. A "10-gauge" string is 0.010 inches thick. The gauge of the thinnest (1st) string is used as shorthand for the whole set — so "10s" means the high E string is a .010.

When you look at a set, you'll typically see two numbers — for example, 10-46. The first is the lightest string (high E), the second is the heaviest (low E). Some sets use a heavier bottom string for a fuller low end, like 10-52 — these are sometimes called "light top/heavy bottom" sets and are popular for rhythm and drop-tuning players.

Lighter Gauges (8s, 9s, 10s)

Lighter strings are easier to bend, fret, and play for longer. They put less tension on the neck, which matters for vintage or lighter-built guitars. The tradeoff: they break more easily, produce slightly less volume and sustain, and can cause fret buzz on guitars with low action or when tuned down.

Best for: Beginners, lead players, blues, classic rock, smaller-bodied guitars.

Medium Gauges (10.5s, 11s)

The sweet spot for many players. You get better sustain and fuller tone than light strings, without the stiffness of heavy gauges. Many professional players favour 11s for their balance of playability and output.

Best for: Intermediate to advanced players, versatile genres, semi-hollow and hollow-body guitars.

Heavier Gauges (12s, 13s)

More tension, more mass, more sound. Heavy strings produce more volume and sustain and hold their pitch more firmly under aggressive playing. They're harder to bend and can fatigue your fretting hand faster. They also put more tension on the neck — worth considering on vintage or lighter-build guitars.

Best for: Jazz, drop tunings, heavy rhythm, slide guitar.

Important: If you change gauge significantly — say from 9s to 11s — your guitar will likely need a setup (truss rod adjustment, intonation, sometimes nut work) to play and tune correctly. Our Guitar Service & Repairs team can sort this out for you in store.

Core Shape

The core is the single strand of metal at the centre of a wound string. Its shape affects tone and feel:

• Hex core — The modern standard. A six-sided core that grips the winding wire more firmly, resulting in a brighter, more consistent tone. More stable with string-locking systems.
• Round core — The vintage approach. A cylindrical core produces a warmer, more complex tone with a slightly more flexible feel. Popular for blues, jazz, and players chasing pre-'70s string character.

Winding Type

The lower strings (typically the 4th, 5th, and 6th) are wound — a secondary wire is wrapped around the core to add mass and control the tone. The upper strings (1st, 2nd, and often 3rd) are plain, unwound wire.

• Roundwound — The most common winding. A round wire is coiled around the core, creating a textured surface. Bright tone, good grip, suits most genres. Produces some finger noise.
• Flatwound — A flat ribbon of wire creates a smooth surface. Very dark, mellow tone. Almost no finger noise. Stiff and less dynamic — mainly used for jazz and clean playing styles.
• Halfwound / Ground Wound — Wrapped like roundwound, then the outer surface is ground smooth. A tonal middle ground: warmer than roundwound, brighter than flatwound, with reduced finger noise. A good option if you want roundwound playability but a cleaner, more refined sound.